Close to AvGeek Paradise, But Not Quite There, at the JFK TWA Hotel

Like its rival Pan Am, Trans World Airways holds legendary
status among the names that defined the so-called Golden Age of air
travel, the glamorous 1960s heyday of the first generation of jet
planes. It’s no surprise that the hotel that bears its name, at
New York’s JFK airport, should attract aviation enthusiasts from
all over, drawn by the retro charm of its Midcentury Modernist
architecture and by the proximity to the runways of a major
international hub. The TWA Hotel at JFK has been hyped as a
bucket-list destination for aviation fans, and on opening day, 
May 15, it proved
that it has great potential as an AvGeek magnet.

But overall, it isn’t quite finished, and it won’t be living
up to its considerable promise until the remaining construction
work is done, all areas are open, and the kinks that were evident
during the soft open on Wednesday are ironed out.

By sheer proximity to the aviation action, the TWA Hotel has all
that’s needed to become a world-class aviation-geek haunt.
Takeoffs, landings and airport operations are within reach of even
amateur-grade zoom lenses; for plane photography, it’s comparable
to the
Atlanta Renaissance Concourse Marriott
and the
H Hotel in Los Angeles
, two exceptionally photo-friendly
airport hotels. And as a shrine to the bygone days of the early jet
age, it has no peer. Yet there are enough issues still unresolved
that, if you are an AvGeek looking to book a stay there, we
recommend waiting until everything is 100 percent working. (We
reached out to the hotel to find out when work will be complete,
but nobody would provide an estimate.)

The most glaring omission on opening day was the roof deck,
where a swimming
pool and bar beckoned
, but construction workers and hotel
employees still worked to finish the space, and access was not
permitted beyond a small area in a corner. No poolside lounging,
sadly, and just enough room for the guests trying to photograph the
planes. Still, imagine what this space could be when it’s
actually open for business, with views like this 777 taking
off.An American Airlines 777 and a Delta 737 seen from the roof deck at the TWA Hotel, JFK airport

An American Airlines 777 and a Delta 737 seen from the roof deck
at the TWA Hotel, JFK airportYou may not even need to even leave
your room to get great photos of airplanes in action. Ask for a
runway-view room on a high floor and you’ll have this view, like
I had from room 658:
When an Airbus A380 taxies in, you’ll be awed by how close the
giant looks.An Etihad Airbus A380 taxiing, seen from a room at the TWA Hotel, JFKAnd
if the winds are right, planes will take off from the closest
runway to your room, letting you zoom in on the action. British Airways 747 taking off from JFK seen from a room at the TWA Hotel
Inside, the hotel does the Mad Men-era atmosphere to perfection.
It’s so spot on that you might think you’re living inside a
documentary on Modernist architecture. The TWA terminal, which is
what the hotel used to be, was the 1962 masterpiece of architect
Eero Saarinen.
The TWA logo is truly ubiquitous on the premises. If the airline
were still a going concern — it was bought by American Airlines
in 2001 — the hotel and the merchandise would be a spectacular
marketing tool. Unfortunately, though, the abundance of TWA
branding could not make up for the 8pm closure of all food
providers minus the
Paris Cafe
, where walk-ins were just not happening — the
place had been booked full already and even our reservation, made
weeks ago for three TPG staffers, was canceled with an email that
mysteriously, and not very credibly, blamed overbooking. (A
representative for the hotel said that the food hall will be fully
operational on Monday, and that the Paris Cafe will begin to serve
breakfast Friday.)Add
a very unstable Wi-Fi, lights that didn’t come on in some rooms,
various technical glitches and unpatched holes all over the
property, and you have a hotel that, even when considering that
it’s still in soft-open condition, isn’t quite ready for prime

The elements for a great AvGeek-y time, though, are all there.
No less an attraction than a real Lockheed Constellation, the
pinnacle of piston-powered liners, sits just outside the lobby,
dazzling visitors with its slender good looks. You can even walk
inside and sit at the controls, engine throttles in one hand and
drink in the other. The 1958-vintage Constellation looked as
stunning in the morning as it did Wednesday night, under the light
of a near-full moon — but, again, a hard hat and tools left under
the front landing gear reminded visitors that things weren’t
quite ready.

The wing of the TWA Lockheed Constellation at the TWA Hotel at JFK and the airportThe
wing of the TWA Lockheed Constellation at the TWA Hotel at JFK and
the airport’s control tower
Two airline pilots (L and 2nd from R) pose with two models dressed
as airline crew at the TWA Hotel

To add a touch of realism to the opening-day events, the
organizers had hired people to dress as pilots and flight
attendants, some sporting actual TWA uniforms. Real pilots mixed in
as well, coming to take a look from the nearby airline terminals,
and the fake crews mingled happily with the real ones.

But while the AvGeeks lamented the disarray of the roof deck,
and regular passengers wandered in without the aid of clear
signage, at least one group had an absolute blast at the hotel’s
opening: former TWA employees, who were out in force to celebrate
their old company.

flight attendants Ann Alfano, Yoli Gross and Paige Verducci (L to
R) pose in front of historical TWA crew uniforms

“It was a good airline to work for,” said Paige Verducci, a
former TWA, and then American Airlines, flight attendant who had
come to the event with two colleagues, Yoli Gross and Ann Alfano.
Friends since they began working together on the Boeing 747s and
707s that crossed the Atlantic for Trans World, they were delighted
by the display of their old work uniforms on the upper level of the
lobby.Their stories — shopping in Milan on layovers, serving
courteous first-class passengers who wore suits to fly, working on
the now-defunct Lockheed L-1011 tri-jet — were a throwback to an
era that AvGeeks are quick to romanticize as the lost heroic age of
flying. But, as much as an homage to those days, the TWA Hotel is
also a reminder that for all its glamour, that was also an era when
society was profoundly different from today’s. 

When Gross recalled her training at TWA, she smiled wistfully.
“Safety was number one,” she said with a laugh, “and lipstick
was number two.”

All photos by the author.

Source: FS – All-Travel destinations-News2
Close to AvGeek Paradise, But Not Quite There, at the JFK TWA Hotel